As soon as the first rays of spring appear, we feel the urge to expose ourselves to the sun. The light, the warmth, the almost magical energy... everything draws us to the king of stars. However, while the sun is a source of life, it can also be a real threat to our skin. Understanding the history and science of tanning means reconnecting with our traditions, while giving ourselves the means to enjoy summer in complete safety. Follow us on a journey where history, biology and protection come together to illuminate your summer.
Over the centuries, tanning has experienced contrasting perceptions, revealing much more than a simple skin color: it's a true reflection of social and cultural values.
In Antiquity and the Middle Ages, a pale complexion was synonymous with wealth and distinction. Nobles and city dwellers, protected from the toils of the fields, flaunted their fair skin as a sign of superiority. Conversely, tanned skin was associated with peasants and manual laborers, exposed to the sun on a daily basis.
From the white rice powders of Elizabethan England to the delicate parasols of Renaissance ladies, everything was done to preserve this pallor, a symbol of refinement.
With the rise of cities and industrialization, tanning remained associated with the rural, hard-working world. City dwellers, often confined to factories, kept their skin fair. And yet, against this backdrop, the first seaside resorts were timidly springing up, initiating a slow change in the way people looked at the sun and its benefits.
It was in the 1920s that everything changed. Coco Chanel returned from a cruise on the Côte d'Azur with a delicately golden complexion. An aesthetic revolution was underway: tanning became synonymous with health, modernity and leisure. Fashion magazines popularized the image of a tanned complexion, a sign of vitality and ease.
While tanning fashions may be seductive, science is sounding the alarm. Little by little, researchers are discovering the hidden face of the sun: its invisible rays, the UV rays, capable of sublimating the skin... or damaging it.
As early as 1890, German dermatologist Paul Gerson Unna identified the role of ultraviolet (UV) rays in skin aging. He understood that these invisible rays penetrate the skin and cause profound alterations.
The first sun creams appeared in the 1920s-1930s, with patents already testifying to a desire to protect the skin. These formulas were rudimentary, often greasy and unpleasant, but they marked the beginning of photoprotection.
Over time, scientific studies have multiplied. In the 1980s, the work of Pathak and Fitzpatrick highlighted the effect of UVA (responsible for ageing) and UVB (responsible for sunburn).
In 1997, Young and his colleagues demonstrated the extent of photodamage: wrinkles, pigment spots, precancerous lesions... Awareness is gradually growing.
The sun emits three types of ultraviolet (UV) rays:
This distinction is crucial: each type of UV has a different effect on the skin, hence the importance of choosing broad-spectrum suncare products.
The SPF, or "Sun Protection Factor", appears to help consumers choose the right level of protection. This indicator measures a product's ability to delay the onset of sunburn. Initially limited to low protection levels (SPF 2 to 4), it now rapidly climbs to 50+. But beware: a high SPF does not exempt you from regular reapplication, as protection fades with perspiration, swimming or simply the passage of time.
The sun may caress our skin, but it also triggers some fascinating... and potentially dangerous... biological reactions.
Tanning is above all a protective mechanism. Under the effect of UV rays, skin cells called melanocytes produce melanin, a brown pigment that absorbs and diffuses UV rays.
We distinguish :
These processes vary according to phototype (Fitzpatrick classification): very fair skins, with low pigmentation, are more vulnerable to sunburn.
Sunburn is a defensive reaction against excessive UVB rays. It results in inflammation: the skin becomes red, painful and hot. Biologically, this is due to the release of cytokines, small proteins that orchestrate the inflammatory reaction. They alert the immune system, causing blood vessels to dilate (redness), pain and repair of damaged tissue.
As well as causing pain, sunburns damage the DNA of skin cells, which is why protection is so important in preventing premature aging and reducing the risk of skin cancer.
Fortunately, science doesn't stop at alarming facts. It offers us solutions for enjoying the benefits of the sun while protecting our skin capital.
Today's sun creams offer mineral filters (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide) that reflect the rays, and organic filters (known as "chemical") that absorb the rays and convert them into heat.
These "broad-spectrum" products provide effective protection against UVA and UVB rays, while offering a pleasant texture and formulas that respect sensitive skin.
Protection also involves simple gestures:
Numerous studies have highlighted the benefits of antioxidants (beta-carotene, lycopene, polyphenols) in boosting the skin's resistance to UV-generated free radicals.
These active ingredients, found in food or supplements, are never a substitute for sun cream, but act synergistically to limit oxidative stress.
Collagen can also be of interest when the sun comes out. Collagen is an essential protein for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. With age or under the effect of UV rays, its production diminishes. Food supplements based on collagen peptides can provide specific nutrients to support this skin structure.
More and more people are turning to nutrition to complement their summer routines. Food supplements can help prepare the skin by providing specific nutrients (such as antioxidants, vitamin C or E, for example). At Dielen, we offer formulations designed to support the skin from the inside out, always with the scientific rigor that characterizes our laboratory.
Formulation based on :
Molval®, a source ofomega-3 (polyunsaturated fatty acids), which contribute tonutritional balance.
Omega-3s are involved in a number of physiological processes, particularly in cell membranes. They can help maintain supple skin and a healthy lipid balance.
Conclusion: an enlightened and responsible summer
Tanning, long a social and aesthetic symbol, is above all a complex biological process. Thanks to science, we now know that it comes with risks that must be taken seriously.
Conscientious exposure to the sun means combining pleasure and protection. Sun creams, protective clothing, well-chosen food supplements... every gesture counts to enjoy summer in complete safety.
Make the most of the sun, but always remember that it's a precious ally... as long as you don't let it get you down!
